How long for kakariki eggs to hatch

Has anything changed in their environment — new birds, new pets or people? Has there been a big weather change — even outdoor weather can have an effect on indoor birds. Is their diet sufficient — nutritionally balanced, greens, veggies and cooked eggs with the shell washed, crushed and cooked with them or other protein and calcium supplement? Hopefully they will be ready to breed again once they have rested. If it happens again, then it probably means she is ready to be retired as a breeder.

In their natural habitat, the breeding season depends on varying climatic conditions; they may basically breed any time of year, but breeding mainly occurs between October and December. Their nesting preferences vary depending on the species. Most nest in cavities of living and dead trees. However, those parakeets living on tree-less sub-antarctic islands have adapted to their environment by making their nests under large rocks and in thick vegetation.

They often re-use the same nest every year. The nests are lined with small pieces of wood, feathers, moss, grasses and other dry material found in their environment. The female incubates the eggs alone and usually starts brooding after the second egg was laid. Each egg measures about The incubation period is between 19 and 26 days depending on the species and environmental conditions - the colder it is, the longer the incubation period usually is.

The young fledge when they are about 5 to 6 weeks old. Although they continue to be fed by their parents for one or more week after fledging. The offspring is generally hardy. The Antipodes Island Parakeet nests in underground burrows that are often more than one meter long, in tussock or sedge. The breeding season is between November and January. In captivity, a clutch usually consists of two to six eggs.

In the wild, only one to three fledged young are generally seen with adults. Eggs are incubated for about 26 days. The young probably start breeding at one year. There are more than Antipodes Island Parakeets in captivity and generally breeding results have been favorable. Most of these parakeets are extremely willing to breed and may be sexually mature when they are only five months old. These big poops can be unbelievable large.

The bigger the poops get, the closer the egg is to the cloacae, where it is due to be expelled. If they are huge for days, your bird is likely to be having trouble passing that egg. Egg binding is a serious condition that will almost certainly result in death if an avian vet is not consulted. The reason that it is so fatal is because of the pressure an egg can put on the surrounding organs.

A Kakariki has all its organs stored in such a small area, as the body cavity of a Kakariki is so small. An egg that is inside a Kakariki for too long can put pressure on the kidneys, liver, and nerves. Pressure on the kidneys and liver can stop them from working properly, resulting in increased toxins in the blood that can cause death. This is why it is such an emergency. Another problem caused by a prolonged egg in the oviduct is nerve damage.

What Can Be Done? If you are unable to get your Kakariki to a vet straight away, there are small things you can do to help your bird. Heat will help the muscles in the oviduct wall contract, and it is a good idea to keep your bird warm by placing a heat pad under the cage floor where she is sitting so that the heat can help her.

DO NOT put the heat mat inside the cage itself, as you don't want to burn or overheat your bird, especially if she is unable to move. The heat pad must be secured to the underside of the cage and only on one side to create a thermal gradient - a warm end and a cold end.

Applying a lubricant to the vent like cod-liver oil with a cue tip will help also add this to water and seed, I would advise the adding of this to seed to be a common practice as it does help to keep egg binding to a minimal. Egg binding can be caused by a few different reasons. General unfitness can cause it. If a Kakariki is unfit, overweight, and doesn't get enough exercise, the muscles may not be strong enough to expel the egg.

In Kakariki who are never allowed to exercise by being kept in their cage all day, or in Kakariki that have had their wings clipped and cannot fly. If you find your Kakariki is prone to egg binding, it is best to discourage any kind of nesting behaviour.

Reduce her daylight hours, give her less fattening treats like millet, and remove any nesting materials that she may have from her cage. Calcium, as I mentioned before, is very important in a cycling Kakariki, and I cannot stress enough how important it is that they get enough.

A lack of calcium in a cycling bird can cause soft-shelled eggs to form in the oviduct that the Kakariki cannot push out. Also, the muscle action needed to expel the egg can be weak without adequate calcium.

She will start using her own body's supply of calcium to make eggs if she isn't supplemented enough, which can make her bones weak, fragile, and easily breakable. She will get generally weaker and weaker, eventually resulting in death if she keeps using her own calcium, so you must remember to supplement her when she is cycling. Personally I ensure there is calcium all year round.

I also believe that the age of the Kakariki is also very relevant to egg binding, as an older bird who is less fit will find it harder to pass an egg. An older bird will need more calcium to support her in general, so an older bird that is using calcium for general bone support and egg-making is very likely to have problems with egg binding.

In Kakariki the same can be said about young hens, hens under 12 months of age again have huge issues with calcium and can easily result in problems. Breeding prior to 12 months of age often leads to rejection and plucking babies. Egg Peritonitis.